There are a
host of issues that can go into draft system problems, but they all
boil down to cleanliness, temperature, and pressure.
1. If your beer has been slowly foaming more and more over the last few weeks and now it is bad enough that you are looking for answers, check for cleanliness!
A. The beer
lines MUST be cleaned regularly, dirty beer lines create foam
B. The glasses must be "beer clean" which is much cleaner than any other kind of glass. The slightess oil, grease, lipstick, or stains in this glass will cause foaming.
C. The faucets (taps) and couplers
must be cleaned as often as the lines! Most Beer distributors are
not very good about taking the faucet apart into it's component pieces and
cleaning them! If you don't clean the faucets, this is what
you'll find inside the plunger that is inside the faucet.
|2. Beer foams at the end of a
keg, and that is normal (want to know why
and what to do about it?). But it should not be so bad that you can't
serve 99 percent of the keg!
|3. Beer will foam at the
beginning of a keg if it has recently been jarred (moved just before being tapped).
It will definitely foam if the keg is still warm from delivery!
It can take up to 36 hours to cool a warm keg down if it has been delivered hot!
Your beer is too warm. The keg should be 38 degrees, and the beer
lines should be insulated, even on short runs. For longer runs
you'll need a glycol chiller system to keep the beer cold in the
lines. 4 degrees temperature difference can mean several inches
|5. Your beer might be
overpressured. Beer should be "pushed" around 12 psi of co2(varies
slightly by beer brand).
If you are not using beer pumps for a long run, then you must use blended gas (co2/nitrogen).
|6. Your beer might have the
wrong nitrogen/carbon dioxide mix! Darker, thicker beers (like
guiness) require a specific mix to pour correctly.